Sudan and Sahara are two of the seven camels owned by Bali Camel Safaris, which is runout of the Hotel Nikko Bali in Nusa Dua. Introductions were made as these single-humped, 10 year-old camels knelt on the sandy white stretch of beach that fronts the hotel. These two noble creatures greeted me with a severe lack of interest and a refined air of sophistication, seeming to regard the world around them with a sense of patient contempt and entrenched snobbery. Admittedly, it is not fair to make such assumptions based on looks and first impressions. In the end they did seem to appreciate a pat on the nose and some of my innocuous small talk and proved to be gentle and engaging companions in the time we spent together. With their legs tucked ingeniously beneath them, our first meeting was eye-to-eye. The guides, Komang and Nyoman, helped us settle into the firm, worn leather saddles, slipped our feet into the stirrups and commanded the animals to rise. Sahara, the lead camel, waited patiently as Sudan unfolded his legs and stood at full height. When Sahara did stand, the feeling was comparable to riding a roller-coaster — a quick, rolling backward swoop that made my stomach instantly leap to my throat and produced a pleasant bout of giggles. From atop the camel’s back, I looked down on the top of my guide’s head, easily two feet below my own, as he took the lead rope and prodded the camels into motion. The camel’s moved in a casual saunter that triggered a comfortable swaying for the riders up top. The trek proceeded along the beach for a short distance from where we could see the thriving sea grass beds, which are cultivated in the area. We turned inland and into the dry bush land that dominates this stretch of the Southwest coast. Here, the flat coastland lies submissively at the foot of a towering escarpment with a craggy, wrinkled gray face. The sandy trail is hemmed by gnarled trees in which gray monkeys cavort freely in the protection of a designated monkey temple. The trip passed through the sea grass processing area, a jumble of bamboo shacks and sandy spaces where piles of multi-colored, gelatin-like substances are separated and dried before being exported to Japanese cosmetics and food manufacturers. The trek continued through the bush land to arrive at another collection of bamboo buildings where the camels were commanded to see-saw roller-coaster to a kneel and riders dismounted for a quick pit stop. Soft drinks were served inside a small warung where some standard tourist wares of sarongs and woven baskets were on display for sale. Once a month, the shade of a nearby juat tree serves as the ring for one of the island’s favorite (if illegal) pastimes – cock fighting. We just happened to be out camel riding on such an auspicious day and stayed long enough to see two rounds and two deaths. This is definitely a blood sport and serious business, at least for the cocks. Personally, I found it hard to watch, but felt compelled to finally witness what is a common element of the Balinese culture. After the rest stop, we remounted the camels and retraced our steps back to the beach. The trek, which lasted about an hour, was a fascinating exploration of this isolated part of Bali and Sudan and Sahara were the ideal guides. Bali Camel Safaris offers four trips per day, at 9 and 10:30 a.m. and 3 and 4 p.m., seven days a week. They provide a free transport service for the Nusa Dua and Kuta areas. With seven camels they can accommodate up to 14 people per safari.