In line with the ethos of PPLH Kafe Tali Jiwa is a health food restaurant designed to promote healthy eating, only organic ingredients are used, all the raw vegetables are washed with purified water and there are definitely no artificial colourings, flavourings, sweeteners, preservatives or MSG. Although it is not solely vegetarian the staff set out to make the menu interesting and tasty as well as healthy and eco-friendly and they are always looking to expand and change the menu. They are open to suggestions and new ideas, particularly if it incorporates the local cuisine.

The menu is different and interesting, a unique mix of local and Indonesian cuisine with a smattering of international colour. A Japanese case in point would be the Miso soup and Wakame salad. The salad, seaweed with shredded vegetables in a soya ginger dressing, impressed my companion no end. It was delightfully tangy, not unduly briny and attractively arranged on a banana leaf served on a coconut palm wood plate. The Jekut Gedang, young papaya soup, was also a hit. This local Balinese peppery broth with delicate chunks of papaya was very warming and comforting.

For a meat-free main course there is quite a selection to choose from. You can opt for the local delicacies such as Nasi Campur, a mix o f typical Indonesian dishes served with rice; or Gado-Gado, steamed vegetables with potato, tofu and egg topped with a spicy peanut sauce. There is also the prerequisite vegetarian burger, this time made from chickpeas and spinach, or try one of the Pita bread sandwiches instead. My companion had his with tempe and tomato chutney and although not a traditional pita bread it was delectably fresh and satisfying. I plumped for the Spaghetti a la Muriel from the vegetarian Pasta section; eggplant and mushrooms in a rich tomato sauce flavoured with rosemary.

Then for "Pencuci Mulut" (literally "mouth cleansers") check out the exciting sounding local specialties. I tried the Bubur Sagu, a sago pudding from the Mollucas served with coconut milk. An unusual, slightly salty dessert, not at all sweet but very enjoyable. For those with a sweeter tooth how about the Kolak a very traditional dessert of banana, sweet potato and jackfruit cooked in a fragrant palm sugar sauce. And tomatoes as a dessert? Sprinkled with sugar and a couple of fresh mint leaves, why not? Tel. (0361) 287 314

AROMA
What about the hungry vegetarians in Kuta? Situated on the hustle and bustle of Legian High street Aromas has the welcoming look of a relaxed and casual cafe and coffee bar. At the front this is just what it is. If you walk through the cafe and across a small bridge into a traditional style Balinese bale you find yourself suddenly in the peaceful oasis of the restaurant. Aromas is exclusively vegetarian and it is owned and run by the garrulous Ketut Nugra a long-standing vegetarian himself of some twenty-five years. Whilst travelling around Europe he often found it very difficult to find vegetarian food and realized that for the non meat eating visitor it must also be difficult in Bali. So Aromas was born in 1990 and is Édedicated to creating the best natural cuisine in a subtle blend of East and Western styles. It is well known for its exciting and innovative vegetarian food and has an extensive and mouthwatering menu.

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