EDELWEISS AND WILD BOAR

The importance of Mount Agung in the Balinese belief system is not, however, its sole point of interest. From the nature-lover’s point of view, the 8-hour climb to the summit is a memorable experience for more reasons than one. Not only are the views from the summit, the highest point in Bali, spectacular. For those who climb mountains not just to reach the top but because they enjoy the climb itself, in particular scrutinising the interesting kinds of flora and fauna along the way, the environs of Mount Agung have much to offer.

The jungle at the base of the muntain is made up of casuarinas, pines, acacias and local edelweiss, and harbours numerous monkeys, wild chickens and even wild boars. Springs emerge from cliff walls, and once one reaches the summit, both the yawning crater and the ocean of cotton wool clouds that buffer Almighty Siwa from the mere mortals at sea level are welcome sights.

ROUTES TO THE SUMMIT

There are four routes to the summit of Mount Agung: the Pura Besakih route, the route via Sebudi village, the Datah route and the Tanah Aron route. The Datah and Tanah Aron routes should only be attempted by professional climbers. The easiest route, which leads past the village of Sebudi, takes a mere four hours but only takes trekkers as far as the lesser southeast peak, at 2700m above sea level. Most climbers opt for the Pura Besakih route which takes between six and eight hours and leads all the way to the summit of Mount Agung.

Climbers are advised to avoid taking beef in any form - including sausages and dried beef but not including milk - on the climb. This particular prohibition is based on the Hindu belief that cows, being the animal ridden by Siwa, are sacred. As climbers are warned before they set out, history has proven that those who fail to heed the restriction risk getting lost, falling into the valley, suddenly falling ill during the climb, or even dying. In addition, those considered ‘unclean’ by Hindu standards are also forbidden to climb the mountain. These include menstruating women or anyone who has had a family member die within the past month and seven days - a condition known as kesebelen.

Unexperienced climbers are advised to climb with a guide. Most guides are locals of one of the villages around Pura Besakih and cost between Rp75,000 and Rp100,000 (which includes payment for carrying baggage). Climbers are required to report to the local police station at Besakih before 9pm, and to leave some form of identification (driver’s licence, passport, identity card) there. All climbing routes are open every day of the year, except for on Galungan, Kuningan and Nyepi - the most important dates of the Hindu calendar.

Those who opt for the Pura Besakih route begin the trek by climbing the steps at the right hand side of the temple. The route takes climbers through the mother temple itself and then on to another temple complex known as Pura Gelap. It is here that an ceremony called Pengenteg Jagag, aimed at ensuring prosperity in the physical world and at protecting it from other-worldly threats, is held annually on the day of the Hindu calendar known as Purnaming Sasih Karo.

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top : sunset from Boyke flying camp
above : the main steps tu Pura Besakih, where most trekkers begin their climb to Mount Agung summit

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