Poppies
The two noisy, narrow, unpaved lanes running between Jalan Pantai and Jalan Legian in Kuta are infamous. Poppies Gangs I and II are packed with sports bars, shops, cheap losmen and the young and hip. Taxis and bikes compete with surfers and their boards for space, and the sound of videos and music battle with the drone of the traffic. Surely not the place for a peaceful evening meal? YouÕre wrong. Hidden behind high stone walls, Poppies Restaurant - with its hanging gardens, fountains and the gentle buzz of conversation - offers a calm haven.

Established in 1973, Poppies claims to be a Kuta institution. It is immensely popular with tourists due to listings in many of the travel guides, so it is often full in the evenings, and the evening we went was no exception. The candlelit tables are very close together creating an intimate and cosy atmosphere. With Ella Fitzgerald singing gently in the background and a gecko sportingly accompanying her, we immediately relaxed into our comfortable chairs and ordered a carafe of Australian wine from the very comprehensive drink list.

PoppiesÕ menu is not outstanding or adventurous. It offers many international favourites with a scattering of Balinese (Nasi Campur, Black Rice Pudding) and Indonesian dishes (Gado Gado, Nasi Goreng). Vegetarian dishes are clearly marked and there are Òlight favouritesÓ for children. Made, one of the charming and attentive waiters, told us that the restaurant is very popular with families, especially those staying at the nearby Poppies Cottages.

Made, who has been working at Poppies since 1987, explained that when Poppies started, the menu was much smaller as there was no electricity and everything was cooked on kerosene stoves. He showed us many of these original dishes (Beef Curry, Balinese Fruit Salad) which, due to their popularity, remain on the menu today. The menu is now updated every 3 years with additions including suggestions and recipes from clients.

We asked Made what changes he had witnessed in his time at Poppies. Laughing, he said that the prices had risen. Certainly, Poppies is not a low budget eatery. Including carafe wine and three courses, you should expect to spend around Rp100,000 per person. He also explained how the food presentation has become more sophisticated as garnishes have been added, since the arrangement of food for an appealing look has become crucial. Will there be any changes for the Millennium? Jeffrey, one of the restaurant bartenders told us about plans for a Millennium cocktail and a Christmas New Year Turkey special.

Poppies is not ÒdesignedÓ, and the decor has remained almost the same over time. The tables are covered with orange tablecloths, the plates are simply white and the ceramic table accessories are unpretentious and functional. Butter comes in plastic packs. Made said that he didnÕt think that there were plans to change this.

So what of the food? We tried the Calamari salad, which was tender, not too chewy with a very sharp vinaigrette. The Garlic Prawns were delicious with plenty of garlic butter. The Cream of Carrot Soup was very sweet, served with a dollop of cream and a sprig of parsley. The Greek Salad that we ordered never arrived.

For the main course, I ordered the Vegetarian Baked Aubergine with Mozzarella and Tomato, which was a little heavy underneath but had a delicious Mozzarella crust.