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HOTEL INDRA UDHYANA 

On the left hand side of the road just before you descend to the village of Lipah, is the Indra Udhyana. It is a dreamy hotel set on steep slopes with stylish rooms all looking out to sea. To reach the restaurant, you meander through the gardens and up a few steps and then stop, spellbound, as the sea unfolds before you. The staff are delightful. and very welcoming, and we were seated and given ambrosial mixed fruit juices in a moment.

The menu offers a selection of Mediterranean and Asian dishes, which are prepared by Pak Dresta and his team. Pak Dresta is originally from Karangasem and, following 15 years in big Bali hotels, he is back on home territory again. 

We tried a selection of main courses. Nasi Goreng a la Canton is a cross between Indonesian and Chinese cuisine. It is wonderful. Smokey roast pork, shrimps, succulent black mushrooms and sweet green peas are combined with the fried rice. The rice isn't too greasy and, as with all good Nasi Goreng, you wish there was more, and more.

Ayam Panggang Mekalas is another Asian style dish. Chicken legs are grilled and then cooked in coconut milk and Balinese spices and herbs. The sauce, which contained plenty of turneric, was supremely creamy and the chicken was tender with plenty of meat. Another Chicken dish we tried was the Chicken 'De Risto', cooked in wine and herbs and topped with melted cheese, which had an identifiably European taste. The accompanying croquettes were seasoned and coated and absolutely yummy and the vegetables crunchy and fresh.

The Fish a la Chef Peter was a winner. An eclectic combination of snapper, prawns, tomato and cheese, my friends really took to this one. Served with crispy roast potatoes and salad, it disappeared in seconds. To begin with, the cheese flavour dominates but the freshness of the fish comes through  effectively. The demi glace sauce, although good, was perhaps superfluous. 

The menu also offers soups, sandwiches and pasta. The dessert menu includes Crepes Georgette (pancakes filled with apricot and pineapple), Balinese Black Rice Pudding and Pumpkin Pie. Apart from seafood, all the ingredients have to be brought in from outside, so there are regular trips to Amlapura. and Denpasar to ensure freshness.

The majority of the staff at Indra Udhyana are local. The delightful manager, Pak Made, explained that many trainees come from the hotel school in Amlapura for work experience. He then told us, with a smile, that the hotel employs only one or two people from each local village to minimise the risk of staff shortage due to Upacaras (Balinese ceremonies)! The hotel is independent and Balinese owned. 

If you are staying in Amed and the sun is shining, this is a treat not to be missed. 

WAWA WEWE

Unpronounceable but great fun, WaWa WeWe is a busy cafe/ homestay with charming staff in Lipah village. Open  throughout the day, there are games and books, guitar-strumming musicians and a  good, straightforward menu. The cafe really comes to life at night when locals, expats and visitors alike gather to eat, drink and be merry. 

There are plenty of snacky items to accompany a drink including Crispy Tempe with a salsa dip, Guacamole and freshly cooked local peanuts. There are also several imaginative cocktails, including the famous Amed Chill ... Ah! The fish, brought in straight from the beach, is excellent and is served with a choice of garlic, lemon, Balinese or chilli sauce. The Warm Tempe Salad is also good. There is also a selection of wicked cakes to be tried, and l fell for the carrot cake, which was still warm from the oven... 

The staff at WaWa WeWe are ever helpful, and can provide you with snorkelling kits and point you in the right direction. for the best site of the day. The Japanese wreck just 10 minutes up the road from Lipah is superb, easy off-the-shore snorkelling with heaps of live coral and fish.

If you are in the mood for a change of scene or are considering hiring a car for a few days, East Bali is a wonderful. option. The scenery and people are enchanting, and the seafood is also unbeatable.

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